Gluten Freebird

Rhubarb, banana cream, boysenberry, peach … I heart pie.

Delicious hot out of the oven, even better for breakfast from the fridge the next morning, it had a lead role in “Waitress,” (and left me craving pie for weeks) and cameoed in a pathetic song in the gawdawful movie “Michael.” (Thanks for making us see that one over Christmas break in ninth grade, dad.)

It’s already tough to find pie in Washington, D.C., but gluten-free pie? That’s downright impossible. Gluten is what gives crusts their flakiness, but there is a way to avoid compromising the crust: Go for pie with a crust that contains no flour at all. And what crust is naturally gluten-free?

An all-coconut crust. You’ll save any off-putting substitutions and get flavor not unlike a Girl Scout Samoa cookie.

This Strawberry Cheese Pie is one that my grandmother loved to serve at dinner parties. It combines everything I love about pie. The fresh fruit, lemon and cream cheese play a tart and sweet tango that is all held together by the crunch of that seductive crust. The bold red berries are beautiful to behold and a juicy way to round out dinner.

I have co-opted the recipe for my own use. With a few tweaks and updates, it’s a knock-out at my dinner parties and has everyone begging for another slice.

You can make it in advance and leave it to chill in the fridge. Apart from baking the crust, it’s oven-free. Best of all, you’ll never miss the gluten.

Strawberry Cheese Pie

(Adapted from Helen Corbitt’s Cookbook, 1947)

For the Crust:
2 tbs butter
1 ½ cups finely shredded coconut
For the Pie:
1 8-ounce package neufchatel or cream cheese, at room temperature*
½ cup sugar
2 tbs lemon juice
1 tsp grated lemon rind
2 tbs cream, or milk
Fresh ripe strawberries
For the Glaze: **
3 cups strawberries
1 cup sugar
3 tbs cornstarch

Preparation
To make the crust, spread the softened butter evenly on the bottom and sides of an 8- or 9-inch pie pan, completely coating the pan.

You can get a finer shred on coconut using the food processor, if needed. Sprinkle with the coconut, and press evenly into the butter. Use more butter and coconut as needed to patch holes. It’s better to have too much crust than one that falls apart in front of everyone.

Bake at 300 degrees for 15-20 min until brown.

Meanwhile, make the glaze. Mash (or blend) berries with the sugar and let stand 30 minutes. Add cornstarch and cook over medium-high until thick and clear, about 8 minutes. Strain in fine mesh sieve or chinois and cool.

To make the pie, combine the cream cheese, sugar, lemon juice, rind, and cream in stand mixer or large bowl; blend until of whipped-cream consistency.

Line the cooled pie shell with the cream cheese mixture.

Fill with fresh sliced strawberries in a circular pattern.

Pour cooled glaze over the berries and refrigerate until ready to serve, at least 25 minutes.

* I use neufchatel to lighten the fat a bit.
**You can refrigerate any leftover glaze and use it to top ice cream, or spread on a biscuit (gluten-free, of course).